Can Luxury Fashion be Sustainable?

With luxury fashion having a higher price tag than other brands such as fast fashion, many would think that this means luxury brands must be sustainable. The sad truth is, a high priced garment doesn't necessarily mean the practices involved were sustainable. This post will explore what luxury fashion is and the factors required to label them as sustainable.

In a short answer, a brand could be considered sustainable if it follows ethical and sustainable practices throughout its supply chain. This is no exception for luxury brands, and they must perform the same standards. A point to remember is that no brand can ever truly be 100% sustainable as there is always use of emissions and possibly raw materials. However, as the developments of technology are constantly evolving, there is room for technological advances for use in the fashion industry in attempts to support a sustainable industry in the future. These may include developments in recycling capabilities as it is currently difficult to separate fibres from each other and this ultimately leads to a less quality fabric, which is difficult to use again for fashion products. These are instead mixed with raw materials to enable use for clothing again.

WHAT IS LUXURY FASHION?

Luxury fashion is commonly considered as garments and accessories that are of high quality, a sophisticated product aesthetic alongside a high price tag. It can be difficult to target a simple definition of luxury fashion, but the quality can be un-matched when compared to other brands, with many holding rare products.

MATERIALS

So, let's talk about materials and what is required for a brand to be classed as sustainable. A sustainable brand needs to consider where their fabrics are sourced from, what they are made from and the choices on what will happen to these at their end life. This may include discussion on whether they are biodegradable or recyclable.

Leather

Many luxury brands produce items with 100% real leather, which reasons the high priced labels. However, the production of leather is a very unsustainable process with many issues. One issues it creates is that extensive rearing of livestock has severe environmental impacts such as deforestation, water and land overuse, and gas emissions. Tanning is the process where the lather skins are treated before being used for making products. This consists of a change in protein structure of the skin to make it more durable and less likely to produce bacteria. Approximately 85% of all leather is manufactured using chrome, which is a highly toxic process that results in waste ending in rivers, causing harm to workers at the tannery.

With over-consumption and fashion waste being a big problem in the fashion industry, it is rumoured that some luxury brands would rather destroy their leftover stock by sometimes burning. Many do this as they are concerned using the materials for alternative products will devalue or reduce exclusivity of their brand. As a society, changes need to be made to create a more circular industry system, ensuring that products have no finite end life but a constant cycle of new life as a new product.

ETHICAL PRACTICES - LABOUR RIGHTS

If you want that luxury designer bag but aren't sure whether the brand is sustainable, doing research on the brand is the best option to take. Looking at Fashion Revolutions Transparency Index for evaluating brand supply chain practices. The Transparency Index investigates 250 of the world’s biggest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices and impacts, in their operations and in their supply chains.

Ethical labour rights should include a fair living wage, good working conditions and respect in the workplace, where workers can feel comfortable sharing their views and opinions on their current working environment to their superiors. Many luxury brands have been found to avoid talk or turn down invites to investigate the working standards of their workers. This doesn't come across well and in turn appears as though they are hiding detailed information.

EXAMPLE OF A LUXURY SUSTAINABLE BRAND

Recently, there have been luxury brands who have adopted sustainability practices in their supply chain and brand identity.

Stella McCartney

One of the most well-known luxury sustainable brand is Stella McCartney, who have adopted several sustainable practices into their processes and also promoted campaigns which present the need for a more sustainable industry now and in the future.

Photograph: Harley Weir for Stella McCartney

The image above presents one of Stella McCartney's campaigns, shot in a landfill site to address the substantial amount of waste sitting here. At the 2016 Kering Talk for Sustainability, McCartney talks about her brand and shares her views on the current fashion industry. Within the discussion, McCartney shares that "by investing love into a supply chain… you can still be successful and be sustainable". McCartney is known primarily for her fur-free and leather-free apparel. Stella McCartney is an indication that having a heavy interest in sustainable practice is possible alongside research and passion, which help ignites a positive change in fashion.

So if you are looking for a luxury item that will be long lasting and also made with consideration of sustainable practices, think about the following points:

• What is the product made from?

• Does the brand celebrate their sustainability practices on their website/ social media platforms?

• Is the brand sharing where they obtain their materials and who makes their clothes?

In conclusion, luxury brands can be classed as sustainable. Of course, adopting the appropriate sustainable practices, thought on material use and where your products will end up at the end of their life is essential in becoming a sustainable brand. Conducting good research into a brand is always the best start in finding out whether a brand you wish to purchase from is promoting sustainable practices.

Sabrina Cowper | Reform Your Fashion